In 14th sentury, English King Edward I instituted a statute requiring that all gold and silver jewelry be tested for standards of assay at the headquarters of the Guild of Goldsmiths before they could be sold. If approved, an item was struck with a mark as a guarantee of quality. Over time, marks were added to signify the date, place of assay and maker of pieces. Though never intended as such, hallmarks are a critical tool in the identification and dating of antique jewelry.
This article offers basic information on country of origin hallmarks and makers' marks compiled from research submitted by Elyse Zorn Karlin, Discovering Hall Marks on English Silver by John Bly and Bradbuiy ~s Book of Hallmarks: A Guide to Marks of Origin on British & Irish Silver, 1544 to 1989, originally compiled by Frederick Bradbury, F.S.A. Consult the list of references for more sources on marks.
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
French Hallmarks
Eagle's head: minimum of 18k gold, in use since 1838.
Owl in an oval: gold imported to France, in use since 1893.
Winged head of Mercury: gold for export, in use since 1879.
Wild boar's head: silver (.950), in use since 1838.
Wild boar's head and eagle together:
mixed metals, after 1905.
American Hallmarks
In 1907, the National Stamping Act required that, allowing certain tolerances, silver marked sterling be .950; that gold jewelry be the karat marked; and that gold-filled, rolled gold, gold plate and silver plate objects be so marked.
Austrian Hallmarks
Head of Apollo facing left: gold jewelry.
Head of Diana: silver jewelry.
Crossed AA: gold imported to Austria, 1898-1901.
Crossed AA and imperial eagle: gold imported to Austria, 1901-1921.
German Hallmarks
Crown and crescent: silver .800 or .850, in use after 1888.
Geschüst: registered trademark design.
Miscellaneous Hallmarks
Déposé: registered trademark design in France, Germany and Austria.
Papal gold mark: Rome.
English Silver Hallmarks
English silver jewelry pieces may carry some or all of the following marks:
Variations of the Leopard's Head, also called King's Mark, general guarantee of quality, also recognized as London town mark. |
